June 26, 2009

Slow cooking in the Jewelry District


I'm no expert on the Providence barbecue scene. I went to LJ's BBQ once, and I was less than wowed, and not just because it's in a shopping center on the Pawtucket line. (After all, Providence's best Indian restaurant, Rasoi, is next door.) Since then, I haven't even gotten around to trying Wes' Rib House, known mostly for being open until 4 a.m. on weekends, or United BBQ, even though it's a few blocks from my apartment and its delivery vehicle is a hip, little Smart Car.


As of tonight, however, I can say that I have finally hit up Rick’s Roadhouse, at the site of the old Big Fish in the Jewelry District.


It was not life-changing, surely not remarkable enough to set me off replicating the pace of red meat binging I kept up last year while living in Uruguay. But the preposterously large Chicken Grande Nachos appetizer ($9) was tasty and colorful (though the BBQ chicken was more chopped than pulled); the Steak on a Stick skewered, marinated and grilled beef appetizer ($7), served with a homemade bourbon steak sauce, was light and perfectly cooked; and the Texas Beef Brisket & BBQ Pulled Pork plate ($15), served with two sides (I recommend the Cole Slaw and the All World Baked Beans) was super tender and pleasantly sweet.

But don't take my word for any of this. The Providence Journal, my employer, has reviewed all these BBQ joints. Read about Rick's here, United here, LJ's here and Wes' here.