Two quick, capsule restaurant reviews.The other day, I recommended Penang, a Malaysian joint on M St. (1837 M St. NW). I tried a very nearby, non-chain competitor last weekend, Malaysia Kopitiam (1827 M St. NW). The menu is extensive and apparently pretty authentic. The roti is pleasantly cheap and chewy. The beef rendang, on the other hand, is bland and dry, not at all what you'd expect from meat "simmered in thick curry gravy with coconut milk and various spices." Props to the Vegetarian Curry Laksa Noodle Soup, however, which is hilariously voluminous and features slow roasted eggplant.
Even on a snowy night, with many restaurants shuttered, I don't recommend finding safe harbor at Ulah Bistro Bar and Lounge (1214 U St. NW, see map above), as I did last night. The bait-and-switch facade is all "Bistro," but inside, it's all "Bar and Lounge." Gaudy, multicolored Christmas lights. Bright flat screen TV. Long bar just inches from the tables, complete with barflies loudly cheering the Dallas Cowboys while following other games on their laptops. In Ulah's defense, the upstairs, as photographed for the restaurant's Web site, looks beautiful. Still, not even the second floor couches could have saved the wood-fired, Ulah pizza, a disappointing pairing of lump crab meat with cherry tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, fresh basil and shaved Parmesan ($15). Fortunately, I was in generally good spirits anyway, happy to be out of the snow and pretty pipón after polishing off the enormous fried calamari appetizer, served with a rich and spicy orange-horseradish marmalade ($9).
