Previously, any mention of the Mennonites (or the Amish, for that matter) conjured up memories of my late 1990s trip to Hershey, Pennsylvania ("The Sweetest Place on Earth"), where the organizers arranged a side trip to Amish Country to give respite from binging on Hersey's Kisses. From now on, I'll have at least one more image: the antique Mennonite (and Amish) crib quilts at the organic Restaurant Nora (2132 Florida Avenue NW).On the off chance that the quilts (and the funky, futuristic infinity wine cellar in the back of the 19th century former grocery) are not enough to sell you on its mostly $30-plus entrees, here's a quick sampling of the refreshingly (though not self-consciously, ostentatiously or even overly adventurously) creative dishes that we sampled on a recent evening: Butternut squash soup with crunchy pepitas, toasted pumpkin seed oil and creme fraiche ($12, though ladled out gratis between courses during our visit); Spanish octopus a la plancha, with olive oil crusted potatoes, chorizo, gremolata (a garnish of minced parsley, lemon peel and garlic), watercress and a Romesco sauce that made me achingly nostalgic for the beloved Romesco wrap (egg, spinach, mushrooms and provolone cheese and a homemade hazelnut roasted red pepper spread) at The Edge (199 Wayland Avenue,
Providence, R.I.), my old haunt in Providence's Wayland Square ($15); feta cheese and beet salad with oranges, grapefruit, beet tuile ("a thin, crisp cookie," or chip, in this case) and pomegranate vinaigrette ($13); pan-roasted Maine scallops and cauliflower risotto with leeks, turnips, peas, kohlrabi (a member of the turnip family sometimes called cabbage turnip) and a brown butter emulsion ($32); and, nicely paired with the art, an Amish rabbit duo loin and confit, with a ramekin of mustard spatzel, braised red cabbage, Brussel sprouts, chanterelles, turnips and cherry stout jus ($35).
Speaking of Providence, here's a slightly cheaper option than Nora (excluding airfare): Mi Guatemala Restaurant (1049 Atwells Avenue, Providence, R.I.). It was not our first choice last night, but the disappoint of finding Chilangos and Mexico closed (and lacking the energy to drive across town to El Rancho Grande) quickly faded thanks to the incredibly homemade tortilla chips, salsas (sweet and chipotle) and black bean sampler and complimentary beefy sopita.
